The Island Magic
It is difficult to sum up exactly what it is about Lundy that makes so many people fall under its spell. There is an almost indiscernible magical quality that seems to pervade the senses almost as soon as you set foot ashore, which varies in intensity from person to person. A holiday here gives the opportunity to totally relax and unwind, away from pressures of mainland life, and be busy doing absolutely nothing.
Getting to Lundy
There are two ways of getting to Lundy, depending upon the season of travel. During the summer months (April to October) visitors are carried on the island's own vessel, MS Oldenburg (affectionately known as the Old and Buggered), which sails from both Bideford and Ilfracombe. Sailings are usually three days a week, on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, with Wednesday as well during July and August. The voyage takes on average 2 hours, depending on ports, tides and weather. Sailings from Ilfracombe are usually slightly faster, as it can take considerable time to cross Bideford Bar and reach the open sea.
The ship is fully equipped with a small shop, information centre, buffet and bar, and has both indoor and outdoor seating. Smoking is permitted only on the open decks in accordance with the new regulations which come into effect on July 1st, 2007. All staying visitors must book tickets well in advance, as the fact that you have paid for accommodation does not automatically entitle you to this. During the summer months, especially on Saturdays, you will also be competing for space from day trippers.
On arrival at the island, visitors disembark on the new jetty, built partly from Lottery funding. The steep walk up to the village then begins. The Lundy brochure describes this as a gentle stroll, which is not at all how I would describe it. It seems that no matter how many times I visit the island, I still arrive at the village red in the face and out of breath! This is no doubt exacerbated by the fact that I am carrying extra clothing and provisions for the journey, and my first few hours on the island. This is necessary though, as it can be cold at sea. Also, at busy times it can be several hours before visitors are reunited with their luggage. It is therefore prudent to carry any essential supplies with you. Tea, coffee and UHT milk are normally available in each property though, should you wish to make a hot drink while you wait. All luggage is safely carried in the hold aboard MS Oldenburg, and then transferred to a tractor and trailer for transportation to your property.
During the winter months, (November to March) the Oldenburg comes out of service, and the island is served instead by a scheduled helicopter service from Hartland Point. The helicopter operates on both Mondays and Fridays, with flying between 11 am and 2pm, making it ideal for weekend visits and short breaks. Although much quicker (an average of 7 minutes flying time), arriving by helicopter is not without its potential problems. As the helicopter holds a maximum of 7 passengers, at busy times it can take considerable time to get everyone across. Those passengers who are scheduled to travel on the first helicopter across are normally put on the last one coming back. One person sits next to the pilot, whilst the remaining six are crammed into the cabin behind. Travelling alone as I always do automatically puts you at an advantage for the front seat, the view from which is pretty amazing, giving you a totally different perspective of the island.
The heliport is basically a field at the top of Hartland Point, not far from the Beacon. It consists essentially of a shed, with tea urn and separate toilet. The café at Hartland Point is kept open on flying days for visitors, serving the usual hot drinks and home bakes. Parking is provided at the public car park a five minute walk from the heliport and costs in the region of £1.50 per day. This is of course though subject to change.
Please note there is a strict baggage allowance of 10 kilos per passenger for the helicopter, and 20 kilos by boat. The literature says that all bags are weighed on arrival at the port and excess baggage (currently £5 per 5 kilos of part thereof) charged to your account at the Marisco Tavern. In practise though, this only ever happens at the heliport. This makes life somewhat difficult for those, like me, with special dietary needs who have to take provisions with them, but cannot unfortunately be avoided. You can of course order goods in advance from the shop, but past experience has shown that they are unlikely to be able to obtain such specialist requirements. Provided you let the Shore Office know in advance, then it is usually possible to take these items free of charge, as long as they are packed in a seperate bag and clearly labelled as special dietary needs.
Entrance to Lundy is free for all those who arrive by scheduled transport. However, as the island is owned by the National Trust, visitors arriving by other means, including their own boats and light aircraft, will be charged a small entrance fee, currently £3.50. A seperate landing charge of around £10 is also charged to those using light aircraft. If you are staying on Lundy, and do not arrive by scheduled transport, you will also be charged for carrying your luggage to the top of the island. Full details and up to date prices are available from the Island Office on 01237 431831.
On the rare occasions (mostly spring and autumn) when the Oldenburg is unable to sail due to adverse weather conditions, the Landmark Trust will endeavour to arrange alternative helicopter transportation, at subsided rate (at the time of writing, £20) and also meet the cost of extra night's accommodation for visitors who are unable to leave the island. For regular visitors to the island, it is inevitable that this will happen sooner or later. In my case, it has so far happened just twice, in November 2003, when the helicopter was unable to fly due to dense fog, and 2 years later in 2005, when the island was covered in snow, a most unusual occurence.
If you do have to leave by helicopter rather than the scheduled boat service then the decision will often not be made until literally the last minute. This is due to the high cost of chartering the helicopter at £1150 an hour, plus the fact that this inevitably means refunding tickets purchased by day trippers, with the resultant loss of income. The helicopter will though take you back to Hartland where a bus will usually then transport you back to your port of origin, once everyone is safely across. This can then necessitate a lot of hanging around, either on Lundy, is one is scheduled on a later helicopter, or worse on Hartland itself. Of course you can always go for further walks while you wait, but make sure you are back at the Marisco Tavern at least 20 minutes before your published flying time.
Occasionally sailings also have to be changed to a different port, due to changing tides or conditions at the ports themselves (this has happened to me twice) but Landmark will always endeavour to telephone you in advance and warn you of this, so that you can make the necessary arrangements. Make sure that they have your mobile telephone number, and remember to check for messages at regular intervals throughout your journey, since it would not be a good idea to leave it on whilst driving. Remember, you can now receive three penalty points if caught using a hand held mobile telephone whilst driving.
For those arriving or departing the island at the changeover point between scheduled helicopter and/or boat then Landmark will usually bus you or from wherever your car has been left, provided you let them know that this is required, so that they can arrange the right sized vehicle. If then for example you go to the island by helicopter but depart by boat then Landmark will bus you to Hartland from Bideford on the outer leg.
Getting to the Ports
Both Bideford and Ilfracombe are accessed via Junction 27 of the M5, which links Birmingham and Exeter. This leads to the A361, the main link road into North Devon. From London and the south there are 2 main routes into North Devon, either straight down the M4 and M5, or via the M3/A303/A358. My personal choice would always be the latter, as it is both faster and more scenic, and therefore less tiring, it will however depend on which area you are travelling from. The A303 also have a large array of Little Chefs and villages just off the main road with nice country pubs, whichc cater for all tastes and pockets, which has to be better than relying on over priced and unimaginative motorway fayre, whose idea of vegetarian food is a vegetable lasagne or a vegetable lasagne!
The A361 takes you into Barnstaple, the largest town in North Devon. At the end of this road, left takes you into Bideford and Hartland, right, through the town centre takes you into Ilfracombe. Barnstaple is not the easiest town to drive through, due its large number of roundabouts. For those who wish to avoid the town it is possible to do this by turning right onto the A399 at South Molton roundabout.
For those travelling by public transport the best option is probably by National Express coaches, which run from most major towns across the country. By train North Devon is accessed via the Tarka Line which runs from Exeter to Barnstaple. You will then need to travel on to the port of sailing via public bus. Further information on both busses and trains can be obtained from www.traveline.org.uk
Accomodation at the Ports
Details on suitable accommodation will be sent to you as part of your holiday confirmation. Having stayed at a variety of different places during my twelve years of visiting Lundy, there are however two hotels that I would particularly recommend, the Laston House in Ilfracombe and the Red House, at Brynsworthy, just outside Barnstaple.
The Laston House has a variety of different rooms, including family, and offers free parking for guests visiting Lundy, even arranging for a taxi to take you to the boat. This means that you are free to leave your car at the Hotel for the entire duration of your holiday, saving you the hassle of parking in town (not to mention paying for it).
The Red House is conveniently located just off the A39, a few miles outside of Barnstaple, ideal for both Bideford sailings and the winter helicopter service, with ample parking for guests. Both are also vegetarian friendly, and can cater for other special dietary needs.
Details of other establishments can be found at www.staynorthdevon.co.uk
Accomodation on Lundy
Lundy has a total 23 holiday properties to choose from sleeping between 1 and 14 people. These include a lighthouse, a castle and a Victorian mansion. Many of the buildings are constructed from the island's granite, and all have their own unique style and character. All have heating and many of the larger properties also have wood burning stoves. Each property also has either a bath or shower depending on size. The kitchens are fully equipped with everything you need in order to self cater. Each building also contains a selection of books, card games, jigsaws etc for those rainy and windy days which are part and parcel of island life.
The island also has its own campsite, situated in the centre of the village close to the Tavern and shop. It has both hot and cold water, with showers and toilets in an adjacent building.
As a single traveller, I have stayed at both single person properties - namely the Old Light Cottage and Radio Room. Both are completely different in style and atmosphere. The Radio Room is perhaps more suited to older visitors, and winter visits, being situated in the heart of the village, next to the Tavern. The Old Light Cottage is more secluded, situated as the name suggests within the Old Lighthouse compound. This is half a mile from the village, on the west side of the island. Both properties are completely self contained with everything that you need.
During July, August, and most Bank Holidays, properties are let by the week from Saturday to Saturday. At other times, properties may be booked for any period that fits in around the arrival and departure of MS Oldenburg and/or the helicopter. The maximum length of stay in any one propery is three weeks.
Money
As Lundy is part of the United Kingdom there is no need to change money or obtain travellers cheques (unless of course you are visiting from abroad). For staying visitors it is possible to open an account at both the Tavern and shop for the duration of your stay, and pay on departure. It is best to take a small amount of cash with you though, as when you arrive, departing visitors may still have to pay their bills. The Tavern may therefore ask you to pay for your first meal in cash, in order to avoid confusion.
Both shop and Tavern accept Visa, MasterCard, Solo and Switch, as well as cash and cheques. If you do need extra cash, the shop can usually cash personal cheques without problems.
Health
As Lundy has no resident Doctor, visitors with serious medical conditions would be strongly advised to consult their own Doctor prior to booking. If you need to take medication for any reason, such as asthma, allergies etc, then take care to ensure that you bring adequate supplies with you. Although the shop stocks basic items such as pain killers, plasters etc, it is always prudent to take a basic first aid with you anyway. Wet wipes or a small tub of water free hand wash are useful accessories to bring with you, as well as a supply of paper tissues.
If the worst should happen, then the majority of islanders are fully trained members of the coastguard team, and are trained to help with evacuation.
The island tap water, although slightly brown is perfectly safe to drink. Although it may be tempting to drink water from the myriad of natural springs around the island, I strongly recommend that you do not do so, as it is likely to prompt a very unpleasant reaction, and may even give you intestinal parasites from the animals that also use these springs. Some may also be contaminated by nitrates and other chemicals from the farm (the island has over 100 breeding ewes).
During the summer months in particular, it is absolutely essential to ensure that you drink adequate amounts of water in order to avoid dehydration. The use of a high factor sun screen is also strongly recommended. Remember that Lundy is an island surrounded by sea, which reflects the rays of the sun. Wind burn can be almost as big a problem as the sun. Unfortunately the only way to avoid this though is to stay in!
Weather
The weather on Lundy is if anything slightly warmer than the mainland, with snow extremely rare. I have though been lucky enough though to witness this phenomena once! As an island, surrounded by sea, the main consideration is of course the wind, which frequently seems to blow from all directions at once. This makes for somewhat exhilarating walks. The west side of the island, facing the Atlantic is naturally less sheltered than the east, which can be relatively calm when a gale force wind is blowing to the west.
On an island with limited shelter, the summers can be blistering hot, and the winters extremely cold. Therefore take care to dress accordingly, and carry adequate amounts of water and sun cream. A hat is invaluable to protect you from the very real risk of sun stroke.
Both weather and shipping forecasts can be obtained from here.
What to bring with you
This will of course depend upon the season of travel. There are certain items however which are essential at any time of year. These include good quality walking boots, and a set of waterproofs (both jacket and trousers), as well as toiletries and a basic first aid kit. It is probably best to take a variety of different clothing, since even in summer, the weather can be unpredictable with gales and heavy rain. The island does have a laundry service, should you run out of clean clothes, but it is prohibitively expensive at £12 for a service wash. It used to be possible to wash your own clothes using the island facilities, but this was withdrawn due to unscrupulous visitors using staff tokens. If then you are staying for any length of time, then remember to bring washing liquid and a clothes line with pegs!
As a general guide, during the winter months I would recommend that you bring:
3 pairs long trousers or leggings
3 long sleeved shirts, plus 1 t shirt
2 sweaters or fleece tops
and for summer:
2 pairs shorts, plus 1 pair each of cropped and full length trousers (the zip off convertible ones are the most useful)
1 long sleeved shirt or t shirt
at least 3 t shirts or sleeveless vests
2 sweaters or polo shirts
During the spring and autumn months, you will probably need to take a combination of these 2 wardrobes.
You will also need plenty of reading material and possibly a radio or CD player for entertainment on rainy days and in the evenings. MP3 players are useful gadgets to bring, since they are lighweight and portable with a large capacity, and some also come with voice recorders so you can record your own diary and the 'sounds of the island' for prosterity. Remember there is no television on Lundy, so one has to make your own entertainment. Some guests do bring laptops, as Lundy does tend to attract the more creative types, but the use of electrical applicances other than shavers is not encouraged, due to the high cost of producing electricity, besides which, they are heavy and awkward things to carry up from the Landing Beach.
The Marisco Tavern
This is the island's one and only Pub, named after the famous Marisco family who owned the island for many tempestuous years. The Tavern forms the hub of island life, and is a wonderfully friendly and atmospheric place with an excellent selection of food and drink to suit all tastes and palettes.
Although the door is always kept open, food is only served at set times. Breakfast is available between 8.30 and 10 am, lunch from 12 until 2pm, and evenings meals from 6 to 8.30 pm. The bar is open from 12 - 2.30 at lunchtimes, and between 6 and 11 pm in the evenings. On boat days, both bar and kitchen remain open until 30 minutes before sailing.
Lunch typically consists of a selection of jacket potatoes with various filings, as well as baguettes and other hot dishes. These always include veggie pasties and burgers, unfortunately neither of which are wheat free. The jacket potatoes are however huge and delicious. I particularly recommend the cheese and coleslaw (remember to ask for melted cheese).
Until recently the evening selection for vegetarians was extremely limited and sometimes non existent. 2004 though saw the introduction of a special vegetarian menu, which means that the choice for vegetarians is now if anything more varied than for meat eaters. This menu is available for both evenings and lunch times, unlike the meat menu, which is only available at night.
There is always a selection of at least five different dishes, mostly home cooked, although some are also brought in frozen from the mainland and reheated as required. These include Aubergine Ratatouille, Vegetable Balti, Mushroom and Courgette Risotto, Vegetable Pasticcio (pasta with Mediterranean vegetables), and Vegetable Stew with Red Wine and Dumplings. There is always at least one dish which is suitable for vegans (clearly labelled), and most rice based dishes are also wheat free. The two chefs are very accommodating, and will do their best to cater for such needs and answer any questions you may have.
The choice for meat eaters consists of a special Lundy menuf featuring island produce such as game stew (goat, venision and soay lamb), Lundy lamb and local crab and lobster. There is also the regular fixed menu of starters and main courses, and up to three daily specials. All dishes are served with a selection of seasonable vegetables, which vegetarians will be pleased to know, are cooked separately from the meat. In the summer months, the Tavern organises occasional barbeques in the small beer garden, featuring burgers, salmon, etc as well as vegetable kebabs, with rice, coleslaw and delicious salads. If you get the chance to go to one of these, then I recommend that you do, as they are great fun.
The Tavern is however much more than a place to eat and drink, as it also serves as an informal island headquarters where one can call it in report problems with the properties, make future holiday bookings, or just sit and listen to island gossip. Many of the warden's events such as bird walks also depart from here.
The Island Shop
Over the years, Nigel the shop manager has become expert at anticipating the needs of both islanders and visitors alike. As a result the shop is well stocked with all essential items, similar to a village shop. These include fresh fruit and vegetables, frozen goods, toiletries, and soft drinks. The choice and availability of fresh produce may not however be as varied during the winter months, due to the cost of helicopter transport, which costs the island £1150 an hour.
Although the shop does stock frozen veggie burgers and sausages, (locally made and Linda McCartney) neither are wheat free. It stocks no quorn or tofu, and only large packs of soya mince, which are not always available. Other basic items, such as rice (brown and white basmati, as well as easy cook and savoury), pasta and tinned beans (butter, kidney and chickpeas) are readily available, as well as fresh humous from the fridge. Rice and oat cakes are also available for those who are intolerant to wheat. Until recently the shop also stocked wheat free pasta, but this has recently been discontinued. Soya milk is also available (unsweetened).
When visitors book their accomodation, they are automatically sent a list detailing the shops stock and inviting them to complete an order form for any special items, such as baby requisitories and special dietary needs. The availability of these items cannot however be guaranteed. Those with special dietary needs are therefore strongly advised to bring basic supplies with them. It is always worth trying to order items, rather than bringing them with you, as Nigel will always ring you should he be unable to obtain these items. Please note though that prices for items which are ordered will be somewhat inflated, since you are in effect paying for someone to go and get it for you from the local supermarket (usually Morrisons in Bideford). It is always worth a try though, since this is likely to cost a lot less than the excess baggage charges, depending of course on the size of your party. Remember that those with special dietary needs can take provisions with them free of charge provided you let the Shore Office know, and that they are also packed in a seperate bag and clearly labelled.
Should you need to bring provisions with you, then there are branches of both Tesco and Sainsburys on the outskirts of Barnstaple, which I have found to be excellent and convenient places to stop and stock up en route. Both of course do their own excellent wheat and dairy free range of products. Be aware though that these atre not large branches, and so they may not have the full range of items available. Both Bideford and Ilfracombe also have excellent health food stores, where a variety of wheat free and vegetarian items can be purchased.
For those wishing to bring chilled supplies with them, I recommend a product called Chillerz, obtainable from larger branches of Millets. These ice sheets remain frozen for anything up to 48 hours, meaning that you can if necessary store supplies overnight at your bed and breakfast hotel before transporting them to the island the following day, thus removing the need to travel through Barnstaple altogether. This is a definite advantage to anyone who has tried navigating their way round the town's eleven roundabouts with confusing road signs. If staying in Ilfracombe, then the majority of rooms at the Laston House Hotel have fridges that you can also store items in.
Photography
Lundy is without a doubt one of the most picturesque islands I have ever visited, with spectacular cliff and inland scenery, and a fascinating variety of wildlife. The light changes in angle and intensity both with the seasons, and time of day, being particularly spectacular in the hour or so before sunset.
For general landscape photography, a wide angle zoom of around 28 - 70 mm will probably be all you need. If you hope to photograph birds, or seals though, a 200 - 300 mm lens will prove its worth.
Whichever type of photography you do, there are three things that are absolutely essential for any successful trip. Firstly, spare batteries, secondly adequate cleaning equipment to protect your valuable equipment from dust and grit, and thirdly a good set of polarising filters. These have the effect of absorbing stray UV light, and intensifying the blue skies.
Most first time visitors find that they have not bought nearly enough film with them, and for this reason, it is one of the shop's best selling items. Kodak negative film is however the only type stocked, so if you prefer slides or a different brand then you need to bring your own. The amount you bring will depend on what type of camera and photography you do, but for a first visit I would recommend a minimum of 1 to 1 ½ rolls per day.
If you buy your films from Jessops it is worth knowing that you get 10 percent discount when you purchase 10 or more rolls. The same also seems to apply to processing, which can be more expensive than buying the films themselves!
Keeping in Touch
The island's one and only pay phone is situated in the front room of the Tavern. Unfortunately it is unable to accept phone cards, or incoming calls, so ensure you bring adequate supplies of ten pence pieces. Extra change is always available from the shop or the bar.
Mobile phone coverage across the island varies, being better on the east side, facing the mainland than the west, although a reasonable signal can usually be obtained from the Old Light. Having recently changed my network from T Mobile to Vodafone, Vodafone seems to be far superior, I cannot though vouch for other networks.
Although the island does have email, this is not available for the use of visitors. If you ask, it will be refused, so I suggest that you don't!
Spiritual Matters
Energetically speaking Lundy is a very special place, forming a Lunar Triangle with Stone Henge and the Preseli Mountains in Wales (this is where the stones used in Stone Henge were mined). It forms part of the same Ley Line then that runs through these very special places. In addition to this, there is also a very important energy vortex located in the region of Beacon Hill, near the Old Light.
The main attraction though seems to be the total absence of pressures and distractions of mainland life. With this comes a gradual quieting of the mind, and constant internal babble, which I refer to as the ego. I usually find that it takes a couple of days for the babble to completely stop, and then after a day or two, if you are not careful it will do its best to start all over again. For this reason, whenever possible I try and stay for two weeks rather than just one.
Walking around the island seems to me almost a like a form of walking meditation, where it is difficult not to see and sense the divine presence everywhere around you. This naturally serves to heighten our own sense of Divinity, and gives us the opportunity to re-discover who we really are. There is no danger of becoming ungrounded here though, as all the walking and close proximity to nature keeps our feet very firmly on the ground!
